Book Cover of White Wine
The refreshing flavor profiles found in white wine are a natural pairing for summer festivities, but they are often considered to be less complex and serious than red wines. In fact, white wine can be both profound and delightful which can make it a preferred choice. Wine experts Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen believed in the range and quality of white wine so much they wrote an entire book about it: “White Wine, The Comprehensive Guide to the 50 Essential Styles and Varietals.” Says DeSimone, “When we first set out to write White Wine, we were told repeatedly by publishers that serious wine people only drink red. As equal opportunity imbibers, we forged on and continued to advocate because we were eager to share our love of white wine with the world.”
Indeed, many would argue that there are far more amazing values in the white wine category, many of which get little notice. Consider that while working on their book Jenssen describes an interesting problem they encountered: “Although it’s easy to find ‘special occasion’ or ‘splurge’ wines in chapters such as Chardonnay or Sauternes, in many chapters there are no wines at all in the high-end categories, and we were struggling to fit all of our ‘bargain’ and ‘value’ picks in the allotted space. This really speaks to the fact that many white wines are truly a value proposition, with high quality wines available at a fraction of the cost of their red counterparts.”
Below you’ll find five white varietals and styles that authors DeSimone and Jenssen suggest exploring this summer. If you want a broader view with even more selections, specific bottlings, and producers to choose from, consider buying their book – where you’ll find over 260 pages devoted to white wine.
DeSimone and Jenssen’s Top Five Suggested Wine Styles
Verdejo: Spain is home to many wine values, but Verdejo is truly one of the best deals in white wine right now. “In addition to the bright, fresh style so many of us are used to, winemakers in Rueda are now producing lees-aged and barrel-fermented Verdejos that offer a lot more complexity on the palate. Verdejo is the number one white wine pour in bars and restaurants in Spain, and it’s becoming much more popular in the USA as well,” say Jenssen and DeSimone. Value: Marqués de Cáceres. Splurge: Ossian “capitel” Blanco
Rhône Valley Whites: Yes, the Rhone Valley makes marvelous, textured white wines with exotic fruit profiles. DeSimone and Jenssen suggest, “So much attention is lavished on the reds from the Rhône Valley that the whites from the region don’t seem to get their due respect. They can be confusing to newbies because they are labeled by appellation rather than grape, but a little digging can turn up incredible examples of Condrieu, made with 100% Viognier; Hermitage, produced mainly with Marsanne; or Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where less than five percent of the output is white, made with a blend of varieties.” Value: Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles Côtes du Rhône. Splurge: E. Guigal Condrieu la Doriane
Fiano: This is a unique Mediterranean white varietal that is worth sleuthing out. Jenssen and DeSimone explain, “Hailing from Campania and Sicily but grown widely in Italy, Fiano’s flavors of pear, melon, and citrus with mineral and dried herb notes are incredible for summer drinking, especially as we turn to lighter styles of food. It’s not just an easy-drinking pour; well-made Fiano de Avellino can age for up to 10 years.” Value: Villa Matilde Fiano di Avellino. Splurge: Planeta Cometa Fiano
Chardonnay: Certainly, this is a grape varietal most everyone knows, but it comes in so many styles and from so many different terroirs these days, it is worth exploring the offerings. Say De Simone and Jenssen, “So much of the wine world has a love-hate relationship with the planet’s number one white variety, which originated in Burgundy and is now grown all around the globe. After years of over-oaking, most winemakers have really backed off on the barrel aging, revealing fruit-forward versions that are food-friendly and refreshing.” Chardonnay is also a terrific team player when it comes to food pairings, try it with everything from fried chicken to a butter-poached lobster. Splurge: Albert Bichot Meursault. Value: Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay
Sauvignon Blanc: This is one white varietal that delivers dramatically different taste profiles, depending on oak treatment and where it is grown. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a lime and grapefruit marvel, while those from other regions can tend towards racy elegance. Jenssen and De Simone concur, noting, “Whether it’s lean and racy or bold and brash, Sauvignon Blanc is always exhilarating on the palate. Its natural tanginess makes it a great pairing with summer salads topped with citrus fruits or goat cheese. It’s no wonder Sauvignon Blanc is one of the most widely grown white grapes in the world.” Producers to try: Value: Craggy Range. Splurge: Gamble Family Vineyards Heart Block
